Kumara Parvatha trek - 29,30 Sep 2012

The famous three big K's of Karnataka - Kodachadri (1343m above sea level), Kudremukh (1892m) and Kumara Parvatha (1712m). I first heard of it from Satya during Rangaswamy Betta trek (when I was still newbie to trekking). He gave a vivid detail of trek's toughness and how he had to go back in dark to locate an injured member(a first timer to trek - audacious!) of his team. I was like I won't even try to scale KP - beyond my abilities.

Well, after scaling few mountains in western ghats and spotting from afar during Sakleshpur train-track trek, I have tried and come back without reaching KP's peak. And that was not the most disappointing part of the trek. Not to impress that the trek is bad, it is AWESOME. I simply have to try again to conquer it's height and width and steepness ;) - hopefully this year itself. I know a few fellow trekkers who do this trek like 2-3 times a year! BMC is mostly/always overbooked for KP and that is despite scheduling weeks together, starting usually from September.

Thanks to my laziness, it is more than 18 months later that am recording the trekking experience. I have forgotten many of the little moments which I fondly mention in my blog posts - including guide names. The captured snaps in my camera comes handy though ;) From them, I guess one of them was Krishna, whom was my first ever BMC guide during Madhugiri trek and met him guiding another group during my Tadiandamol trek.

After the woodlands shoes gave me three blisters, I tried to prepare better for one of the toughest treks in Karnataka. I went to Decathlon and got myself a Quechua trekking shoes, blister reducing socks and got supposedly leech proof gaiters from Basecamp (actually, Yatin got it for me). And like previous two-day treks, I ended up packing very heavy backpack (I have consciously tried to reduce the stuff I pack every trek after this).

Three of my colleagues (Gaurav, Yatin, Gautham) and Gautham's friend Krishna Karthik joined me, rather fortunate considering the number of treks I have gone knowing nobody. We reached Kukke Subramanya on Saturday morning around 7:30 AM (don't remember anything of night journey, but we were late in reaching this place). KP can be reached from two opposite sides - this one is the tougher one.

By the time we freshened up, had breakfast, some visiting temple and started the trek, it was around 8:30 AM - atleast an hour later than ideal. About 10 minute walk on village roads, flanked around by tall trees, we reached the forest base spot from where the climb starts. I think there were multiple guides, our group size being 20+. We were given instructions - safety precautions and to avoid littering.

Starting point - just before entering forest

The next two-and-a-half-hours were a grueling lesson for mind, body and spirit. And thats just the starters that KP offers. Humidity, leeches, steep climb, slippery forest leaves and tree roots/trunks, stones covered with moss, heavy backpack. But once outside the forest (after close to 100 minutes trek), one is greeted with heavenly greenery all around. The views are worth every drop of sweat. I don't remember a previous occasion where I lost so much of precious salt - at one point I felt as if suffering from severe fever. I chastened myself for opting for this trek and questioned my likings, but in retrospect, I am going to go again someday :P :P :P

Tough going inside forest

For majority of climb inside the forest, we  were in groups and close to each other. Once outside in grasslands and largely free of leeches, we spread out very far, even our little group of five. Those with very good stamina were far ahead, I was somewhere in the middle and others behind. The guides have a thankless task of keeping us co-ordinated, one has to be ahead of all to make sure we don't miss check-points and one behind the last member to avoid slow trekkers losing track.

Lonely trek is good enjoyment for me, allows ample time to look for macro shots, landscapes, take in the views and soak in its serenity. But a constant fear exists too - of losing track, unknown grips me senseless most of the times. While taking rest, about 20 minutes hike after emerging from forest, I accidentally had put my heavy bag on a spider - I noticed once I stood up to leave. Not sure if I unknowingly freed a soul or not :-/ 

The spider I accidentally placed my heavy backpack on

Taking a haggard looking selfie, winding paths, far off river amidst thick forest with couple of bridges built over, peaks all around crowned by clouds, being assured when I spotted a group or two ahead or behind, some nice macro shots, mounds of stones (a feature I've noticed in many western ghat treks, good sign of being on right path, may serve as milestones to those who know every occurrence), slumping just before Battarmane (not sure of spelling) - sipping Real fruit juice and finally dropping exhausted inside paradise of hut maintained by amazing old man. Reasons enough of the lure of Kumara Parvatha. All this comprising less than 3 hours of trek.

Just before Battarmane

Battarmane, what I remember, provides ample space for group of 20-30 to stay. A typical village house, with all round the day water supply from mountains and as far as I could gather, the old man is sole caretaker. I did see few workers supplying him food items (these workers trekked fast, heavy load on their heads, no footwear and sweating glistening on their bare torso). The food prepared by the old man for all us was good, wish I knew Kannada and conversed with him. The house is nestled out of sight from trek path - there is a tower of sorts near the trek path for a landmark and two diverging off roads to reach the hut from either side. From a higher vantage point further up the path, one can see it easily.

Battarmane

We rested more than 100 minutes, dried as much possible our smelling clothes, removed leeches (taking care of keeping distance from our stay) - I didn't have any bite that I could see, chit-chatted and generally felt better to trek ahead. Many, including me, didn't think had the energy to reach the peak. We happily shed most of luggage, but prepared for rain on guide's advice.

So, about 10 minutes to 1 PM, we started our journey again. I had changed to shorts for convenience and removed the leech gaiters - not needed for grasslands (though they still are there). We were in for a treat better and bigger and longer and tougher than morning session. Turn any side, it was green except for a few patches of brown cliffs on high rising peaks. We passed near a forest office (don't remember if it was house/office/both) with a large poster explaining in English that this was 'Pushpagiri Wildlife Sanctuary', its wildlife, area being 100+ sq.km, a request to be kind to nature and then daring us to explore. The sky more gray and white than blue. Very good lighting conditions (in so far as my experience) for photography.

Seating arrangements in stone/cement/wood benches were in place at view points (atleast two), we didn't waste the opportunity to rest and snap pics to be posted on social media. We crossed valleys covered with lush green grasses like fur on blankets, just too good to keep trekking despite the steep climbs and need to rest often. Clear path indicated frequent trekkers and later found that water gushed downhill through them - so perhaps a very natural trail.

Far to go, KP not in view

In all this spectacle, we never got a view of Kumara Parvatha itself, it is hidden behind whatever assortment of peak we saw. A little dispiriting too - as one cannot gauge the distance left, except someone who knows the path very well. Guide too far ahead to share knowledge. The sky became lot blacker than gray and white. Still, it was humid. I started getting cramps, as probably did for many others. Bananas and Electral helped a bit.

Crossing hills

The climb increasingly became tougher. To reach one particular steep hill, we had to be careful stepping inside rather large grown grass - uncertainty arising because of possible stones underneath. There wasn't any clearly visible natural path, a mesh of grass. And tiny, thin blades on edges. My idea of shorts was so ignorant. There were tiny black spots all over my shin. Having company of my colleagues was re-assuring. Gaurav and Yatin in the lead always ready to wait for me. Gautham and Karthik were behind, enjoying the trek and not worrying about reaching the peak.

Check point - Mandap

90 minutes after lunch, we reached a spot referred as mandap/temple - though it has just the four pillars with a roof and no walls. From the numerous images I had clicked in this duration, I feel as if a day had passed. Most of us, if not all, welcomed another rest - a long one this time. The place is definitely a good vantage point, I clicked the river amidst forest with two bridges again. A stream is close by. And we were just few feet below the clouds. It is just magical place, if you are going, just forget worldly problems, take along friends and loved ones - I promise a heavenly experience (except perhaps when it is dry and arid in Feb/March)

Looking back, patch of river visible beyond the mountains

On we marched and marched, no idea of an end point. Ignorance is bliss - not always ;) My furrowed temples stand out in pics my buddies took. I am always worried about time, on this occasion it was the sense of urgency to reach peak and not miss out in rain. At some point we had gotten message that we will have to descend down roughly around 4 PM.

I got more opportunities for macros though, a wild flower, tiny bouquets,  a caterpillar, frog (or tadpole, dunno which - but camouflaging with rocks) new shoots of leaves.Visibility dropped heavily as we treaded amongst the clouds. Seen often, somehow some member gets a stick to lean on during treks.

Resting atop Sesha Parvatha

Around 3:30 PM, we reached Sesha Parvatha, final peak before the elusive Kumara Parvatha. It is here than one can glimpse the peaks of KP. Guide was waiting there to lead final ascent - only 5-6 went ahead while some of us decided to stay put at Sesha Parvatha. Speed was necessary to beat rain and darkness, I was too cramped and exhausted and generally opt for safety than risk.

Glimpse of Kumara Parvatha (peak on left)

For around an hour, while waiting for the small group to return from KP instead of descending back, we did our best to enjoy the view, take pictures, chit-chat and gobble snacks with other members. I brooded a bit for failing to reach peak for first time in my short trekking career :P Very briefly, we got glimpse of twin peaks - the left of which is KP. To one side was small area of grassland and followed by forest. The other side was fatal fall ending with a sprawling dense forest. We were hard pressed to stop posing for snaps atop stones, near the edge and mountain peaks behind.

When the conquerers returned, they looked pretty tired. But loads happy. Reported a leech haven along the route. They didn't rest much and we started back soon, in hope of avoiding rain and reaching Battarmane before it is too dark. Such a desperate wish it was :P

Not sure how long, but within 20-30 minutes, nature opened its fury on us. As if in retribution of daring to trek even if it was last weekend of September, well past the monsoon season. Makalidurga was on top of my mind. Rain and trek don't go well with me. Though it wasn't bodily harm this time.

I had the same water-proof jerkin with me as I had then at Makalidurga. I had trusted it then and safely got purse and mobile back by placing them in inside pocket. But this, I thought I was acting clever by using instead water proof wildcraft backpack. I knew water would seep in through the zips, so used the water proof cover for the backpack to place my valuables (including the camera) at bottom of the bag (Normal usage is to cover the backpack).

Every step was prone to disaster. Water gushed along in tributaries. Shin high. I got worried for my new shoes too :P Walking besides the path on grass was not all a option - too muddy and slippery compared to wading through water, not knowing if a stone was there or not and if that was loose. Rain wasn't relenting anytime soon, so we didn't stop much at the Mandap.

A few slipped here and there, I caught myself many a times without falling. Thankfully, no one was hurt. Light was fading. Temperature dropping to make us shiver. We trekked as much as possible without taking out torches out even after rain had stopped. The not so confusing path while ascending suddenly was fraught with too many alternative paths made visible with flowing water. A familiar sight here and there guided us for long.

Before I spoiled things further when we were trekking along the edges of hill. Guides were behind us, making sure no one is left behind and compensating for the slowest members. Very few had gone ahead of us. Fog was heavy, darkness soon to envelope us. Leeches attracted to our heat. Torches were out, mine strangely working despite getting wet a bit (was in front zip, I was carrying the bag in front of me for warmth). I had no notion of having crossed this section on our way up, so I brought everyone to a halt. I argued that if this was the correct path, guides would soon be with us and we can proceed safely. If not, it would be good idea to not get lost further (remembering Satya's rescue too). Many were against me. I would not listen and told they were welcome to proceed.

I was really scared, imagining all sorts of wild dangers and ways to survive the cold if we were indeed lost. Looking back, it is strange really. Consciously, I am not convinced why life should exist, but at that hour, I was afraid, very very afraid for my being.

Thankfully, we weren't lost. About 15-20 minutes we waited in the dark, many switching off the torches to preserve battery, but now and then checking legs for leeches and flinging them off. I am sure, atleast a few were fuming to know that I brought them to a halt unnecessarily. But I guess, I would do the same next time I find in similar situation, unless I get wise about trekking and know tricks to identify routes.

My day got worser after we reached safely to Battarmane. Pool of water got collected in the very place I thought was less prone. My effort to tie up valuables was shoddy, water seeped generously inside mobile phone and wallet. Camera was safe in its own pouch even though sides were exposed. The battery of my phone had blown up so much that I could prise open the back cover to dry for hours. It had served me more than 4 years, a sorry way to lose it (and all data and contacts with it - I still haven't learnt to backup the contacts. Sim was saved that day, but I had stored most contacts in phone and card memories)

We changed into dry clothes without assurance of throwing out all leeches. Some were clinging swelled round. While waiting for dinner, we devoured plenty of snacks in candle light. Don't remember much of dinner, but we sure were well fed. Sleeping bags took care of cold but our joints ached in the morning. Not sure, but I think it rained heavily again in the night around dinner time.

I counted about 2-3 leech bites from previous day's trek in rain. (There were more waiting to be discovered above knees when I reached home). Some applied copious amount of turmeric turning their footwear yellow (given the success the day before). Some others used tobacco powder. I trusted my gaiters again, still unsure of right way to wear them - they droop down often.

After heavy rain, even the open sky trek before forest was fraught with danger. Now it was more suitable to avoid slippery muddy path in favor of grass patches. The trek through forest never seemed ending. After midway, we were numbed and resigned to walk and walk. And often keeping a lookout for leeches. The leaves clattered all around the pathway is very vivid even now, as is the sensation of seemingly endless walk.

But of course, we did come out. I immediately removed my wet shoes. My feet were crying for relief having been soaked for about 3 hours of trek. I was so happy with myself for carrying the 'extra' luggage of a pair of sandals. Some walked barefoot from that point to TT at Kukke Subramanya in favor of wet shoes.

About half a kilometer before Kukke, some of us stopped at village hotel. And to remove leeches. We freshened up our faces by splashing water. Had tea/coffee and some buns with sambhar (the ones you get in Karnataka hotels). Our attire got more than a few amusing glances, though I feel villagers ought to have seen plenty before us, year after year, weekend after weekend.

We had lunch in same hotel again, ice-cream outside, 1-2 glasses of sugarcane juice - whose shop was very crowded. After all that shivering the previous evening, it was damn too hot under the noon Sun. Considerable time we had to wait for everyone to assemble and finish lunch. The market is pretty good with plenty of dry fruits, handicrafts and the like. Large crowd on account of Sunday and popularity of temple.

Don't remember any thing at all of ride back to Bangalore. Guess we slept a lot. After writing this post finally, I can't wait to do the trek this year post monsoon :P May even train for the trek :D And definitely will take a good plastic cover and carry only absolutely necessary items :P

Plenty for macro shot lovers

Night trek to Narayanagiri - March 23, 2012

As has been my inclination often in the past, I ended up following a western ghats trek with a short trek soon after. This time, there was a marked difference - two of my colleagues had joined me. Along with two other friends of a colleague, it made five for the group - a rare luxury for me.

The tempo journey was made pleasant by numerous Hindi olden-goldies songs. By midnight, we were at the base of the hill - one among the many in Ramanagaram, where Sholay was shot. Night treks definitely seems popular with Bangaloreans. There were about 25 that night. One of my favourite coordinator from BMC - Satya was to be one of our guide. Like my last night trek, I didn't opt for the sleeping bag again :D

Our little group - before starting to climb

The trek in whole was about 70 minutes only including numerous small breaks. But for most part, it was steep climb. The initial part especially was made more difficult with muddy path littered with small stones making it skiddy. But when we reached the top, we wanted to be climbing more. Such is the mysterious workings of our body.

Atop the hill

We scouted around the peak (with a temple in between - by which the peak gets its name) for a suitable place to sleep. Mostly, it was dry, long, dead grass on one side. The rocky surface was very uneven on the other sides. By then, everyone had reached the peak and preparations were underway to light a campfire. So we dumped our bags to one corner and joined the others.

Camp fire (forgive my shooting skills)

By 1:30AM in the morning, the camp fire was well lit. Large dry grass and broken tree branches were collected from all corners. Camping spirit had gotten to all of us, shedding our everyday shell we put on for sake of society. Like in movies, we circled around the fire with music from phones and our own screams. When most of the fuel had been burnt, we resorted to Anthakshari. And when most had had enough for the night and went to sleep, a small group huddled close to the fire, re-kindling it with leftovers and further scouting. We kept up the Anthakshiri as well, adding regional movie and folk songs as well. We scoured the deepest memories to keep it going, even if it was just a broken line, sometimes not even a proper starting with allocated letter.

So cozy - alas I missed :(

By the time the last embers were put out with water (a good practice after camp fire) and our little group settled to sleep, it was well past 4:30AM. I regretted not bringing sleeping bag, despite having to pass only about an hour. The thermocoat helped bear the cold a bit, slept fitfully for a while on the hard rocks. Around 6AM, we were awake again, our bags packed for departure. We took some photos in the early dawn until sunrise. And then, we had fun in capturing the red glowing ball from various angles. 

Unveiling the red ball

Climbing down took us about 40 minutes. We went to a lake nearby, which was green to a large extent with lotus. We spent sometime there trying to capture flock of birds circling the lake as well as playing skipping stones. Returning back, we saw lots of Mango trees, which is what Ramnagaram is famous for - after bring known for Sholay perhaps.

Near the lotus lake

Kuntibetta Night Trek - February 11, 2012

First trek of this year and the place a long awaited one. For some reason or the other, I kept missing the Kuntibetta trek - be it the weekend MS studies or coinciding with trips to home. Having done a night trek before with BMC, I marked this one as the third semester was nearing to its conclusion. The wait was certainly worth it.

The fun started right from the 130-odd km tempo journey to Pandavapura, where the hill is located. After crossing the city limits, a fellow trekker enthusiastically suggested that we play mafia (a game I got acquainted with during the Wayanad cycling trip). Though the rules were different, the essence of the game was same, We played two rounds, the second one lasting much longer as many first timers got the hang of it after the first round. It certainly is a good way for time pass and served as ice-breaker too. And the best thing about it was that all the twelve people in the tempo participated.

At the base of Kuntibetta

We arrived at the base of Kuntibetta at around 1 AM. About 30-40 trekkers had come, conforming the popularity of the place. Ofcourse,we twelve continued to be together for the climb. Sleeping bags were provided for those who wanted. I had brought a thermocot and was adamant in staying awake the whole night. So, I didn't take one and was happy to have reduced luggage. We started the climb at around 1:30 AM after going around a small pond. The climb was steady for around half an hour before we came to a steep rock. The guides had brought ropes for the purpose. It was my first experience of climbing with the help of a rope. Though it was barely 10-15 feet, it wasn't easy. There was relatively flat rock after it where we took a break for refreshments and photo-shoots.

Short break after the rope climb

It took us another 40 minutes (1 hour 10 minutes overall) to reach the top. It is a short trek. But it certainly was enjoyable as we crossed small hills to the top. And one point, we diverged from the actual path to stand on a small cliff. I don't quite remember how big the moon was, but we had to be careful with our footsteps. There were some slippery climbs too, where we helped each other to cross.

Quickly various groups settled down for the remaining three-odd hours for the dawn. After customary photo shoots, we started with snacks to settle our temporary hunger. The air was chill and I was starting to feel bad about not bringing the sleeping bag. I had the thermocot, but decided to not put on for the moment. After we had settled down proper and satisfied our stomachs, it was time to kill time. We had already done surveying of the villages below and enjoying far-off lights. As it happens mostly, we started telling stuff from our lives. As usual when my turn came, I told some of my trekking experiences. One guy shared his childhood spent in an African country. It was good enough for novel or a movie. How they had attacks, how they survived so fortunately, their journey back to India. I told him that time and it's true so far - I will remember his account for a long time.

I was actually sitting away from the group with music on my mobile, looking around the hill. The voice had carried to me clearly and it was only later that they knew I was listening. After everyone had their say, they prepared to sleep. I spent the remaining hours in solitude, wondering among other things, why should life be there and whether or not we had a choice before coming into existence. At some point before dawn, I put on the thermocot as it became very cold.

 

Starting the descent

We started our descent 15 minutes before 6AM. We took a different route after sometime as we were headed to the lake at the base. It was almost a two hour hike. Having not slept whole night and hunger made it difficult. And after reaching the lake, I didn't like the idea of stepping into cold water. The life-jackets took time to arrive and I don't know swimming. That made it easier to decide at the time, but looking back I feel that I missed out :D. Overall a nice trek to start the year with.

Time pass while others enjoyed the lake

Trek to Horagina Betta - 8 Oct, 2011

As has become my customary, I did a short one-day trek after the exhilarating trek to western ghats (Kodachadri). For the fourth time running. Kiran was the guide from BMC. Horagina Betta is near the famous Nandi hills in Chickballapur. The trek's starting point was halfway on the Nandhi hills road. The group size was around 20-25, two of them I knew from previous treks.

Starting the trek - off Nandi hills road

 

Tough initial climb

After the usual prep talk from Kiran, we started our climb at around 9:20AM, with Sun playing hide and seek in humid conditions. Wild grass and bushes, some tall as us, some thorny, greeted us unwillingly. No wonder we were the first batch of BMC on this trail. One hour into the trek and we were already sweating, a bit exhausted and stopped under the shade of a large rock. We could see the peak intermittently, taunting us. From an angle, it looked like an elephant sleeping on its belly, its four legs stretched and a tree growing taller than others on the back for the tail. After 15 minutes of rest for refreshments and snaps and some trek-gossip, we renewed our quest in arid conditions.

Elephant, no?

 

Scenery to our right

The bushes grew wilder and as we gained altitude, we spotted Nandi hills with its mobile towers to our left. To our right, were small hills and lakes and villages surrounded by greenery all around. And within twenty minutes, we took the next break, this time overlooking a cliff to the right. By Kiran's estimate, we were half-way to the top. After that, the breaks became more frequent, what with steep climb and humidity in arid conditions.

Still a long way to go

Frequent rest en-route

Finally, after two-and-a-half-hours of climb, we reached the peak to our collective relief. However, we continued beyond the peak to the other side to find a good spot for lunch. We went past a temple that is visited frequently by villagers nearby. This temple can be seen from peak of Nandi hills too. I remember myself spotting it on my earlier visit to Nandi hills and wondering at that time if the climb was difficult. Well, I had my answer.

Hills all around - Nandi hills on the right

Not finding a good shady place, we trekked back and finally settled under trees growing around the edges. After lunch, it was a long session of snaps with cliffs and around. Some took to sleeping under the trees. After about an hour of relaxation, we started our decent.

Some wild insects on the way back

Unlike the tough terrain we got on our climb, the descent on the other side (facing Nandi hills) was easier with well defined path, perhaps from the frequent visit to the temple through this route. However, at one spot, the wild bushes were a nuisance, several meters tall and thickly populated making our passage difficult. After that, it was a normal climb down on rocky surface and sparse forest. Within one-and-half-hour we reached the base and joined the Nandi hills highway. We waited under a tamarind tree while the tempos came to pick us up. All in all, yet another good trek with BMC.

Heavenly trek to Kodachadri

From the time I got addicted to trekking, Kodachadri was amongst the must do list. And so, during the perfect weather for any western ghats trek, on Friday evening, Sep 22 - 2011, I embarked on what now is one of my favorite trekking experience. The starting signs were themselves great. Not attending 'torturing' weekend MS class was in itself a treat which was boosted by the unexpected holiday which meant I could take off another weekend. The tempo from BMC was on time. I had an almost instant rapport with fellow trekkers which was one of the defining aspects of the wonderful trek. Plus, one of the guide was Kiran with whom I had already done two treks. All in all, it was like an action movie beginning with a bang.

We reached our home stay at the base of Kodachadri early in the morning around 6:30 AM. We were a group of around 25. Among the trekkers, I knew only one from my previous trek (Sakleshpur). Perhaps whenever we meet, it turns out to be an awesome trek? :P. I had previously seen senior people (aged 50+) in treks, but this time I got to see a six year kid scaling a peak in Western Ghats. I was a bit skeptical initally, but then I came to know that he had already scaled Kumara Parvatha! He was a live-wire throughout the trek - another fab aspect of the trek. Not to forget mentioning - the foreigner from South Africa who had allocated an entire year for adventure trip around the world.

Starting from home stay towards trekking spot

The home stay was atypical of the western ghats - pipe connection from running stream, ample gardening around the house, first-class hospitality and tasty breakfast. Leaving extra baggage and having packed lunch, we started around 8:30AM. The tempo took us to the starting point of the trek and we were fortunate to send our sleeping bags and tents along with a vegetable carrying jeep to our home stay at peak. After the customary prep talk from Kiran (and another guide) and photo shoots, we were on our way to the peak.

Assembling at the trek spot followed by prep talk by guides

Crossing the stream into the forest

We started initially on the jeep track and diverged after about 20min by crossing one of the numerous streams into the jungle route. And ofcourse into the leeches. Many of us walked through the stream with the shoes getting wet while a few clever ones removed the shoes and put them back after crossing. I had trekked with wet shoes in Thirumaleguppi, so I didn't give it a thought. It would trouble me the next day.

Out of the forest - first thing to do is remove leeches

The small village and cultivation land on our way

We were immediately treated with fallen trees covered with moss and flat mushroom, ferns, new leaves sprouting, fallen leaves, double-faced Rudraksha, noisy insects, leeches, etc. There was a bit of humidity too. Soon we spotted wild frogs famous around these areas. Some were dark brownish, some like a chameleon sporting mix of light brown and tinge of green similar to the muddy path we were treading on. Beautiful wild flowers completed our blessed experience.

Yet another stream crossing

It took us another 45 minutes or so to cross the forest with its slippery paths punctuated with thin streams and wilderness all around. We came out on a wide grassland with beautiful view of mountain ranges covered mostly with thick trees all around us. We took the opportunity to rest and remove leeches, and yeah most important of all - taking snaps. The coordinators pointed some peak having patch of grass surrounded by thick forest as part of our route - but there wasn't any distinct shape to be able to remember. As we started again and crossed the grassland, we came across villages with green cultivation all around. Crossing the fields, the forests started again - this time with plenty of short waterfalls and wide streams.After about 20 minutes, we came across the most dangerous part of our trek - crossing a bed of rocks made slippery by water flow. Two huge fallen trees were our support and even then crossing was dangerous. It took about 20 minutes for our entire group to get through it. I couldn't help imagining the danger during full monsoon flow - must be very impractical.

The most dangerous part of the trek

Into the forest again - steep and slippery

We now had to steadily climb around the edges of the mountain having thick cover of forest interspersed with waterfalls. After another 20 minute hike, we finally reached the main attraction of the trek - Hidlumane falls. Though it was second half of September, there was good enough water-flow and certainly gushing and icy cold, even at 11:20AM. I kept up my tradition of bathing in a waterfall whenever I go to Western Ghats. The pure and cold water doesn't need a second invitation - one simply shouldn't miss it. It was certainly the biggest waterfall yet I have visited. The force of the water felt as if being barraged by bullets. And ofcourse, it was the much needed massage for journey ahead.

Hidlumane falls

After the refreshing bath, we climbed further up through the winding forest. At one spot, coordinators had to climb up first and lend support for us to go ahead. This led to a small hold-up and allowed leeches have easy preys. For the first time during the trek so far, we got tired and our legs pained from steady and steep climbing. At around 12:40pm, we finally left behind the last of our forest trekking. Ofcourse that meant that the leeches were left behind too for the time being. But more steep climb awaited us through the grasslands. Out of the forest also mysteriously got us good cell-phone signal. 

 

Finally out of the forest - but more steep climb awaited us

Mesmerizing beauty all around

Still a long way to go

After another round of photography of the view around us, we willed ourselves to climb for another 30 minutes to reach a vantage view point on a flatter surface invitingly having a bench made of wood. Some time during the climb, we had a view of cultivated land we had crossed earlier. Perhaps the coordinators did correctly point out this peak after all. We relaxed for quite a while here gossiping about - what else? - trekking. Many of us removed the shoes to get rid of the many leeches painlessly drinking our blood. My count this time was '6' after a disappointing '1' (Sakleshpur) and '2' (Thirumaleguppi) :D. We were hungry, but many among the group didn't like this place for having lunch as it didn't protect us from the hot Sun.

The picture says it all

Lots of ups and downs

And we moved closer and closer to heavenly Kodachadri

After a bit of up and down between hills and a sighting of Kodachadri with its jeep tracks opposite our hill, we settled down to have lunch on a rocky bed with a stream nearby. The stream was actually flowing under the rocks before breaking out and forming a small pool and allowing trees to grow around it. Anyone having extra eateries shared it across the group - another highlight point of our awesome togetherness. Lunch was finished in a jiffy and within the hour we were up again towards our destination.


After another huffing and puffing climb for 15 minutes, we joined the jeep tracks of Kodachadri. Another group of trekkers joined us during the climb - presumably they started after us but had fewer stops in between. The view from the tracks was again exhilarating, the scenery enriched with misty clouds now starting to engulf all around. The Sun though continued to play hide and seek. Another round of snaps followed, the kid being most obliging.

After lunch, more steep climbing

And finally the jeep track to Kodachadri peak

It was close to 3pm. The trek so far wasn't very exhausting, but challenging. The winding jeep tracks were boring after having trekked through the forests, but they did provide us breath-taking views of misty covered hills and forests and gorges and guest houses. Another haul of an hour's trek took us to the home stay. Couple of shops provided us with much needed refreshment in form of tea and coffee and cold drinks. I am failing to remember correctly if some of us had late lunch given by the home stay - the memory is muddled up a bit am afraid. But we weren't done with the day's job yet. We had to trek further up for a date with the famous sunset view from Kodachadri peak.

We literally walked through the clouds :)

But still a long way to sunset point

If our sightings of the mountains covered with mist en-route so far was mesmerizing, then what we came across the last climb for the day was surely heavenly. Rows of cloud covered entire valleys with sun rays filtering now and then. And when they moved to reveal what they hid, we could see dense forests and occasional cry of the wild. More than half an hour of steep climb with tired bodies were forgotten and replaced with pure bliss that can only be experienced.

The temple atop Kodachadri - clouds spoiled our chance to see sunset

Atop the peak at last, we were greeted with a very old looking temple made of stone and covered all around with green growings. The sad part though was that we were engulfed completely in the clouds that our visibility was reduced to few feet. We were deprived of viewing sunset, but many including me made a secret pact to ourselves to return another day. For the moment, we settled on the misty grasses with the mountain's edge close by. The South African, though, turned disappointment to thrilling experience - he climbed a protruding ledge off the mountain covered with mist but visible enough for us to capture him, his hands aloft with obvious glee. Another member followed his lead shortly after he came back, but the rest of us thought it too dangerous to give it a try.

The South African

We went to the sunset point anyway - another 10 minutes of slippery trekking through near darkness at 5:40pm!. The guides had to shout to make themselves heard to let us know the way. The path was covered with wild grass and other trekking paths merged here. Surprisingly there were leeches at the sunset point without there being trees around. Perhaps the misty conditions enable them to survive. We gossiped for some time and went back to avoid trekking down through pitch darkness. On the way, we stopped at one of many vending stalls selling sweet lime water and other eateries. Though the lime concentration was very less, most of us had a glass or more. Most of the vendors had packed off for the day and this kind vendor obliged our large group. While coming, we also saw a group gathering wood - perhaps they intended to pitch in for the night - though as far as I know, camping for the night ain't allowed.

We might have called it a day from trekking perspective. But back in the home stay, we settled nicely for another round of gossiping while dinner was being prepared. One of our guide was a specialist in snake handling and the talk eventually led to snakes. Hearing about snakes always fascinates me initially, but after sometime I feel oddly uncomfortable. And I certainly didn't fancy seeing live snakes nearby. We all had more surprises coming up. For the moment though, we enjoyed hot and nourishing dinner and went to sleep early so as to give ourselves a shot at sunrise.

The sleeping bags were perfect in protecting us from the cold as well as varied insects coming inside the house attracted by light bulbs. Sometime in the middle of the night, a drunkard from the village somehow came inside our home stay. After a bit of row he was driven away, but not before some of us were robbed of peaceful sleep. At around 4:15am, the guides started waking us up to get ready for the trek to sunrise spot.

Armed with torches, we began our climb. For most of us, it was the first experience of trekking so early in the morning as well as going to a sunrise viewpoint in the high mountains. The air was cold and fresh, our spirits high. Onwards we marched, guided by each others torch. The sunrise view point was on a different peak to that of the sunset one. And lesser trekking distance too. However, it had it's own challenge - walking on a narrow path, barely 2-3 feet around the mountain's round edges. Coupled with the darkness around, it certainly had our adrenaline running high.

Preparing and waiting for the sunrise

We reached the spot well before sunrise. At around 5:45AM, streaks of reddish-orange light shone on the horizon. We were treated with another heavenly experience. We were surrounded all around by mountains and our spot rose above the mountains in the east. What made it special was the milky cloud cover ending on the edges like a waterfall. While we waited for Sun's first rays to strike, the crescent moon attracted our attention. And as light grew bright steadily, we began shooting the mountains around us. Some adventurous folks went past the peak's edge, down a bit to wait for the sunrise to be enjoyed in solitude. The wait for sunrise continued to taunt us and we were worried if clouds would play spoil sport for the second time too. At around 6:15AM, we even gave up the hope and started to trek down - only for the gods to lift our dark mood by the Sun's piercing rays as we were descending round the corner at 6:18AM. And needless to say, we tried different tricks to capture the fiery red glow. To top it all, I met a college-mate who was part of another group on the way back.

Sunrise amidst sea of clouds

At around 8-8:30AM, we began the descent - the only unpleasant (physically) part of the entire trek. We had to take the jeep track path and reach base in roughly two hours. I was told that this route was around 10km. It seemed much longer to me - thanks to the wet shoes which had had no chance of drying from previous day's water exploits. As the Sun rose to its fullness, so did the temperature. My shoes began to dry unevenly and ultimately giving me blisters on both feet with more than half the distance pending. Having not brought sandals, there was but no choice than carrying on with shoes. It pains even now to just be reliving it. Though all was not bad during the descent. The small groups that formed during the descent kept changing so much so that I must have walked with most members at some point or the other. And I distinctly remember the kid asking Kiran on the differences between Cheetah and Leopard - and the funny part was that the kid knew the answer, he was just 'kidding' us!

About 1-2km from the base, some members took to the streams flowing under the jeep track. Much as I would have liked to have a dip, the sore feet made me reach base asap and remove the shoes. After everyone had assembled at the point we had started the trek previous day, we went to the home stay again for refreshment and late breakfast. The host also offered honey and other items which some members bought. After we finally took leave of the mountains, we still had another item on our agenda - visiting Nagara Fort which was about 20-25km from Kodachadri.


And we were immediately thanking heavens for having a snake-catching expert as one of our guide - a large snake (perhaps cobra, not able to remember) was spotted near the entrance of the fort. The guide immediately went about his business - and soon enough had caught the snake by its tail. But instead of putting the snake inside a bag immediately, he held the snake for a long time for us to see. With hindsight, it should have been avoided. The South African came in aid of holding the bag when it eventually was decided to stop the snake holding. By this time, a local crowd - chiefly children, had gathered in front of the fort. The guide and the South African struggled before the snake got free, shooing away the kids. By this time I was sick of it all and proceeded to go inside the fort. I heard later that there was more drama before they could finally put the snake in the bag. Glad I wasn't around.

Nagara Fort

The fort was ruined yet beautifully maintained with greenery all around. It was amazing to think what people achieved in construction in those days without all the automated machinery of today. One could easily deduce that it was built for strong defense. A series of steps led to a tower from where one could see entire fort and water bodies around. The tower had an emergency exit too - or perhaps meant as a secret door in case of attack which led to back side of the fort. The stair-case was still usable and we reached the backside base of the fort. There were ruined cannons made of stone. The path also led towards prison which must have been horrifying cell as much as it looked dreary. We spent around 50 minutes to see the entire fort. The captured snake was release into a forest just few kilometers from the fort. And along the way I saw another long black snake perilously close to the road. I hadn't seen wild snakes before the trek (not counting zoos) and here I get to see two in space of hours.

After lunch on the way, the usual antakshari was chosen for time pass. Usually I note down good songs so as to add them to my playlist. While I did got a few this time too, this antakshari was different - going with the trek's theme perhaps. The songs were chosen from all south-indian dialects plus hindi. Not caring a jot about our weird voices, we heartily sang anything coming to mind. The best part was that everyone participated. Around 5-6pm we stopped for tea and when we resumed, antakshari gave way to sharing stories - mostly personal experiences, some of them love stories, some school incidents and some trekking ones. And fate had another twist in store for us - vehicle breakdown. But thankfully near highway hotels where some had their dinner while the vehicle was being fixed. As it got very late, some members caught state buses who were kind enough to stop. I stayed behind so as to experience reaching room very late in the night - it was around 12am when I finally completed two days of awesome experience.